The future of Maris Piper under the spotlight

Maris Piper has had its day; or has it? That was the provocative title of a GB Potatoes debate at the British Potato Industry Event.

Arguing that the stalwart’s days are numbered was Katy Pook, Head of Brand & Marketing at Greenvale. She touched on Maris Piper’s near 70-year history saying it was bred to be resistant to the most common type of Potato Cyst Nematode.

“It would be fair to say that the food and farming industry looked a little different then, than it does now,” she said.

“The potato sector was dominated by tens of thousands of smaller multi-crop growers mainly supplying local markets and early versions of supermarkets. But that was a far cry from the national distribution networks we have today.”

“When Maris Piper arrived in the market in 1966, the variety Majestic accounted for 60% of the market, but its vulnerabilities to pests and disease and the rise of newer varieties led to its demise – doesn’t that sound familiar?”

Maris Piper’s resistance to PCN and consistency of yields and reliability made it popular with growers. Its multi-use nature meant that it soon established itself and remains in the public’s conscious now, said Katy. But she argued that it has had its day:

“The sector is more industrialised, there are bigger and more complicated machines, greater pressure from pests and diseases with fewer chemical control options and more volatile weather against a background of greater assurance demands.”

At the start of the 2000s, Maris Piper accounted for almost a quarter of the UK potato area. Since the overall area has dropped by almost a third and Maris Piper only accounts for 10% of that area. Whilst also volume share of Maris Piper in the fresh retail market, has dropped from a 19.5% to 16.5% in the last four years, still incredibly meaningful – but a continuing directional trend.

“Importantly, consumers complain of poor quality, bruising and too much waste at certain times of the year. In the months from March to July Maris Piper’s complaint share is typically 40% of all complaints received – around double its share of units – but it has been as high as 54%.”

She said that Greenvale research found that despite consumers stating that they are attached to the variety, the reality is that 93% of consumers who buy Maris Piper would simply buy other varieties if it wasn’t available on the shelves.

“And, the fact is it is already changing. Retailers are already speaking to us about using alternative varieties and focusing on using Maris Piper, when it is at its best.”

Lots of life in Piper yet

Standing up for Maris Piper and arguing that it will far outlive him and most people in the room, Gordon Stark, Director at Taygrow said:

“Maris Piper has seen off lots of different varieties. It has navigated its way through the chipping market, the packing market and even grown as a salad at one time. It was bred for PCN resistance, specifically rostochiensis. Now there has been an increase in pallida over the years.

With the development of new varieties, pallida will be looked after and you will see an increase in rostochiensis and Piper will be part of the resistance armoury to that strain.”

He said the consistency of Maris Piper means that 500,000 tonnes to 700,000 tonnes is still grown every year, with 60 million tonnes of the variety grown over the last 60 years – almost a tonne for every one of the current UK population.

“You look at Piper, it’s cheap to plant, you can get any market for it, it’s never had a penny of royalties paid on it, seed rates can be low in comparison to very high seed costs for other varieties.”

From a consumer point of view, Maris Piper is suggested for a large range of recipes by a host of famous chefs such as Delia Smith, Jamie Oliver, the Hairy Bikers and Nigella Lawson, according to Gordon.

He acknowledged that a changing climate does make growing Maris Piper more challenging, especially in England, but added that has seen more of the variety being grown in Scotland

“So it’s great for us that you guys can’t grow it anymore. And don’t keep growing if you can’t grow it. Don’t get ambition and ability mixed up lads and lasses!”

The audience debated blight and Maris Piper, the role of genetically engineering new varieties and the mashing quality of the variety and others.

Announcing the result of the vote, debate and GB Potatoes Chair Alex Godfrey said:

“I believe those who believe Maris Piper has had its day may just have the edge, but it is narrow victory and I don’t doubt the debate will rumble on. But congratulations on this occasion to Katy.”

To watch the Maris Piper debate from the British Potato Industry Event click here.